Calendar of Events
This Month's Meeting - April 15, 7:00 p.m., at the Pittsburgh Civic Garden Center Ralph Dukstein will discuss the basic shapes of bonsai and the techniques involved in attaining those styles. Workgroups will then work on pruning and wiring techniques using hemlock branches. Each member is asked to bring at least one tree of their own that is in need of styling work. We will work as a group to help each other achieve pleasing results. Even most experienced members have specimens that they're not quite sure what to do with, why not bring them in and get the input of others.
Swissvale Classes. The Society sponsors free clinic type classes at the Swissvale Senior Citizens Center Tuesday nights from 7-9 in the spring and fall. These classes are arranged by Anna Clark and conducted by Keith Scott. There is no better way to learn the art of bonsai. The Center is located on the ground floor of the Swissvale Library at the corner of Monogahela and McClure Aves. For additional information, call Evelyn Christie.
Other Events
Grove and forest plantings are among the easiest techniques for getting satisfying results quickly. There are a number of rules that help to ensure pleasing results when creating a grove.
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Despite T.S. Eliot’s now, near cliché that "April is the cruelest month of the year,/ breeding flowers out of the dead land," for bonsai fanciers April can be and usually is the month not so cruel but full of promise: days are longer, night and day temperatures moderate, sap runs and all the nurseries and garden centers explode with possible subjects for the bonsaist’s scissors. Of course, April possesses notable contrasts that foil the uninitiated, what with frost one morning and soft rain the next. What is one to do with the trees? Probably the best action is no action. What if a few frail buds freeze black and back? Gird up your loins; smote them.
An old Belgian propagator in Chesterland, Ohio, used to spout that a frost when the leaves, flowers are about to open saves pinching back new, soft growth. It takes strength and resolve not to try to protect the new buds. Keep in mind: the early leaves serve only to provide energy so that later growth can flourish. If primary leaves are killed by frost or freeze, the tree will look distressed but new shoots will occur; the tender, frosted leaves will dry into dust and will soon be forgotten.
The suggestions above apply to plants of proved hardiness, not the ones we wishfully think are good bonsai but not really not hardy. I could, but won’t go into a discourse on how to acclimatize plants to aberrations of spring, April weather. As stated with agonizing frequency, every grower must learn, know so much: your yard, light, sun, shade, wind, fences, house, tree protection, as well as every plant species in one’s care.
Since woody plants have begun to blossom, a few words need to be said about blossoming and its procedure with bonsai. Recall that all bonsai are to be shown in their proper time, at their pinnacle of color, texture, vigor. For example the azalea, long revered for its length of blossoming period, is rarely exhibited when not in flower. Thus when not in flower, it is allowed to grow unchecked. In spring, when the flower buds begin to show color, the azalea bonsai is cut back to its form and in so doing some blossoms will be sacrificed for the refined shape.
To get full blossoms on any given plant it must grow. Thus, a juniper, not normally grown for flower or fruit, can be pinched and pruned throughout the growing season, as can most conifers. However, a crabapple, will produce long, vegetative growth and should not be pruned until spring as mentioned when the flower buds begin to show definite signs of blossoms.
As with all things sculptural, timing looms important coupled with a vision of how the tree is to look. In short, learn when to cut and do it with direction, with resolve. Cutting will not hurt the tree, only removing blossoms carelessly or without patience will harm the tree.
| Species: | Common name: | Scots or Scotch Pine |
| Botanical name: | Pinus sylvestris | |
| Japanese name: | No equivalent |
Advantages: Wide hardiness range; readily available from any of dozens of nurseries in and around Indiana, PA; good color: deep, rich green; excellent crusty bark even when young; reacts well to root pruning; produces excellent buttress roots; sends out adventitous buds after terminals are pinched; tolerates dry as well as wet conditions, thus will grow well in a pot. Dwarf forms are excellent as well.
Disadvantages: The Scots Pine does acquire pine needle cast, the larvae or the European saw fly and pine needle scale but these problems can be controlled by a rose spray.
Suitability as Bonsai: 10 on a scale of 1 to 10 [As suspected your not so humble editor feels the Scots Pine should supercede all other pines as a bonsai in this area.]
Growing location: Full sun
Watering: Keep soil evenly moist: damp to the touch. Be sure to pot the pine in coarse soil.
Propagation: From seed; dwarf forms by grafting.
Fertilizing: Use a balanced fertilizer every week or two during the growing season.
Over-wintering: The Scots Pine is so hardy that it needs little protection in Pittsburgh's winters.
Styling: Informal upright in a clouded form. It doesn't react well to cascade growing but any other form will perform well.
| Species: | Common name: | Japanese Black Pine |
| Botanical name: | Pinus Thundergii | |
| Japanese name: | Kuromatsu |
Advantages: Readily available; widely heralded as the foremost pine bonsai; good bark; tolerates water but must have first rate drainage; develops adventitious budding on old wood when kept healthy; easily wired, takes to pruning well.
Disadvantages: Not reliably hearty north of Pittsburgh; needles can be too long for good proportions; pine needle cast and needle scale can damage or even kill a weak tree.
Suitability as Bonsai (1 is least suitable 10 is most suitable): 8
Growing Location: Full sun
Watering: The Japanese Black Pine will tolerate wet conditions if proper drainage is present. Keep coarse soil damp to touch.
Propagation: Seed or with dwarf or specialty forms by grafting.
Fertilizing: Use a balanced fertilizer every week or two during the growing season.
Over-wintering: The Japanese Black Pine needs protection from winter temperatures below 0oF. A variety of constructions can help the pine survive: a poly house is ideal but stacking hay bales around the tree helps along with mulching several inches over the pot and the trunk.
Styling: Informal and formal upright as well as many other styles except cascade.
As many of you may already know, Keith Scott retired as curator of bonsai at the Phipps last Month. PBS member Kevin Haughey has been named person in charge of bonsai maintenance. Best wishes to both of them in their new endeavors.
Spotlight trees provide a great opportunity for members to share their work with others. Please consider bringing a tree (particularly if in bloom), stone, or other item of interest along to the meeting.
Don't forget that there will be a sale table available at every meeting. If you have excess trees or supplies, this is a great way to pass them along to someone else. Individual members are responsible for all items placed on the sale table.