Calendar of Events
This Month's Meeting - July 15, 7:00 p.m., at the Pittsburgh Civic Garden Center Bob Grealish will describe the needs and techniques for summer pruning. Members are asked to bring trees that need to be pruned or need to have wire removed. Summer care problems will be addressed also.
Swissvale Classes: Classes are over for the summer. They will resume September 8.
Other Events
August meeting: Our annual picnic will be August 2 at White Oak
Park Magnolia Grove in McKeesport. See enclosed map for directions it
is # 18. The time is 4:00pm until dusk. The entree and drinks will be
supplied by the club. Members are asked to bring starches, salads, and
desserts. Last names beginning A to I are asked to bring desserts; J to
R to bring salads; and S to Z starches. Please call Dan Riccobon at
412-731-6612 with your RSVP.
September 18,19 meeting: September’s meeting will cover two
programs: on Friday, September18, Keith Scott will demonstrate his
approach to creating a bonsai from a large field grown Scots pine,
emphasizing stock removal and long-term creative planning.
On Saturday, September19, Keith will conduct a workshop for up to 10
people using Scots pines. The thrust of the workshop will be of course,
styling, potting and after-care. The Friday night program is free and
open to all. Saturday’s workshop will be $75.00 and payment must be
made by August 15. Persons who wish to observe are welcome. Please mail
payment to Ralph Dukstein, 256 Nedview Drive, Bethel Park, PA 1510
Just when you had become self-satisfied at getting your bonsai through the winter with nifty new growth in spring; along comes summer with its ruin. Why is it bonsai possesses so many contradictions? Prune or don’t; water or not; spray for bugs or let them have a life too
These few considerations and infinitely more face the enthusiast daily when pursuing bonsai art. As much as I proclaim mastery over all the mundanities of daily bonsai care, I must admit I give in to indifference in July’s heat saying aloud and silently, "it is too hot for insects to be abroad; they are lying about, snoozing". As in all things, I’m wrong yet again. The bugs, fungus, and errant viruses frolic and rollick taking advantage of my sloth.
So, smite them, antennae and segmented leg. Spray liquids on them that would stop an elephant, bull or cow, at a full gallumphing gallop. Yes, killing bugs with commercial insecticides is much like killing mice with a hydrogen bomb. And after it is all over the bugs return to torment both tree and owner. Thus, the way I treat bugs is to use the mildest spray I can find, usually, a product used to control the "thousand natural shocks" that roses "are heir to". Since insects are either suckers or chewers, almost any concoction will discourage them or at least make them go elsewhere. Spray every seven to ten days or by label instructions.
To prune new growth always presents problems. Should you not stop new growth, the trunk will increase faster, but, the shape of the tree may be come bizarre after a time. Make a decision!
I have long advocated fertilizing from May to October. I like to do it every week, but again the contradiction. Fertilizer tends to build up in moss, and what it does to weeds: arenaria and oxalis, e.g., borders on criminal. Also the soil mix must be porous to allow the elements to get to the roots. Some worthies say that fertilizer produces rampant soft growth that dies back over the winter. I’ve not seen that effect if a balanced fertilizer is used.
Remember: look at the tree; learn to detect stress: burned leaves, crusty soil surface, leaf drop, macabre leaf color: maybe the tree seems loose in the pot These, along with hordes of other problems must be seen and reacted to.
When all else fails, put the bonsai in the ground, pot and all AND LEAVE IT ALONE. If nothing works, don’t call me. I’m trying to figure out my own plagues.
| Species: | Common name: | Boxwood |
| Botanical name: | Buxus | |
| Japanese name: | Hime-tsuge |
Varieties used as bonsai: For smaller bonsai the Buxus microphylla compacta "kingsville" has no real peer; however, in recent years reversions of kingsville have flooded the bonsai market. For larger bonsai, the Korean, Japanese, and older forms of English boxwood have proven to produce fine specimens.
Advantages: "Kingsville" as well as its predecessors, microphylla and compacta produce superior small trees. Their ruddy bark and good buttress formation set them apart. But the most engaging factor is their small leaves. They can be wired when branches are young and seem to thrive as pot plants. Their abundant root system allows them to be grown in a variety of individual styles as well as in miniature landscapes.
Disadvantages: Slow to produce vigorous growth when newly propagated. Also, they tend to be generally slow growing except in the tree forms. While hardy, many of the southern boxwoods do not tolerate Pittsburgh winters. Since they are broad-leave evergreens that will profit from winter protection, particularly from sun.
Suitability as bonsai (1 is least suitable 10 is most suitable): 9/10
Growing location: Filtered sun
Watering: Boxwood likes water, particularly when in a pot. Small boxwood bonsai should be kept damp and watered twice daily in hot weather.
Propagation: Woody cuttings can be taken any time during the growing season.
Fertilizing: Balanced fertilizer May to October.
Over-wintering: Shelter the boxwood from winter sun.
Styling: Informal upright and in tray landscapes.
| Species: | Common name: | Beech |
| Botanical name: | Fagus | |
| Japanese name: | Buna |
Varieties: European and its carious selections e.g., roundifolia, salicifolia, tricolor. Smaller leaves and habit are essential; hence, the Japanese form seems to be more suitable.
Advantages: European varieties are readily available in better nurseries or from specialty nurseries. They grow well in medium to shallow pots, tolerate wet soil and are hardy in Pittsburgh. Dry autumn leaves stay on the beech till spring.
Disadvantages: The Japanese beech is not common except from importers and collectors and can be quite expensive. Also the beech seems particular where it grows. As a bonsai it may take a while to find its best growing spot. The American beech is rarely if ever used: too hard to collect; sucker growth is common
Suitability as Bonsai (1 is least suitable 10 is most suitable): 5 a possible 6.
Growing location: Since the beech produces a leathery leaf, it is nearly a broadleaf. Therefore, protect the beech from intense sun; it does better in a filtered location. It will let you know if it is not happy.
Watering: Since the beech possesses such heavy, coarse leaves and in great quantities, water it thoroughly. Be sure it never dries out, in fact, an extra measure of humus in the soil will serve the beech well.
Propagation: From seed or by being grafted.
Fertilizing: Use a fertilizer with more nitrogen than phosphorus or potash: 15-10-10 e.g.
Over-wintering: While the beech is hardy, it will benefit from protection from wind and late winter sun.
Styling: Groves, formal upright, informal upright, broom.